The origins of Monte Compatri, a little municipality 30 kilometres from Rome, are lost in the mists of time; one legend even has it that they can be traced to Glaucus, son of the mythical King of Crete, who it is claimed established the first settlement here.
It lies in the heart of the Castelli Romani Park, rising on a tufa cone that is part of the impressive volcanic system of central Lazio, surrounded by unspoilt forests and the nearby lakes of Albano and Nemi.
This unusual natural environment is thus a major attraction of the place, as is the ancient medieval hill town itself, one of the best preserved in the whole of the Rome hinterland.
On entering the town we find the Angel Fountain, the “heart and soul” of the townsfolk’s life, a tribute to those who toiled to bring water from the Carpinello up to the town. In a little square close to the Cathedral we can admire the charming Belvedere Fountain and imagine how in times past women used to come to fetch water here with their traditional pitchers.
A trip to Monte Compatri cannot be said to be complete without, after visiting the already mentioned Angel Fountain, taking in the majestic Convent of San Silvestro, in the highest part of the town. The Convent’s picture gallery has paintings of the Mannerist and Caravaggio schools.
On the peak of the mount, where the historic centre of Monte Compatri is situated, stood the town of Labicum in ancient times, one of thirty belonging to the Latin Federation. The Labici were known by the Romans as “the people armed with painted shields” (picta scuta Labici).
Local dished are distinguished by their strong flavours, deriving from rural tradition. Porchetta (spit-roasted pork), abbacchio (suckling lamb) , tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms, pasta with grass peas, oxtail, pajata (cooked intestines of unweaned calves) and tripe cooked Roman-style. And for those with a sweet tooth: doughnuts made with wine, serpette biscuits and pangiallo (saffron cake).
If you haven’t had your fill here, other stunning places to see include the Archeological and Cultural Park of Tuscolo, the Mithraeum of Marino (sanctuary to god Mithra), the Lakes of Albano (or Castel Gandolfo) and Nemi and Barco Borghese (Mount Porzio Catone).