Among the UNESCO World Heritage sites in Lazio there is also one belonging to the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. This is Viterbo’s Macchina di Santa Rosa, a 30-metre-high tower weighing 5100 kg, with the statue of town’s patron saint at the top, that on the evening of September 3 is carried on the shoulders of some 100 men called “Facchini di Santa Rosa” in procession through the streets of the historic centre.
A moment of the Transportation of the Macchina di Santa Rosa on the night of Sept. 3
This is the most important Festival in Viterbo, the “City of the Popes,” the capital of Tuscia and an integral part of Etruria (the territory inhabited by the Etruscans).
The event commemorates the transport of Saint Rose’s body that took place in 1258. It is celebrated in two distinct parts. On the afternoon of September 2, the procession with the relic of the Saint’s heart takes place. On the evening of September 3 (starting at 9 p.m.), the Macchina di Santa Rosa is lifted and carried on the shoulders of the “Facchini” along a route of a little more than a kilometer articulated in very narrow streets and alleys, among wings of passionate crowds.
Facchini in their traditional clothes
The celebration of the Macchina di Santa Rosa is full of excitement and fascination. Tens of thousands of people from all over the world attend crammed along the route, even arriving, as early as the day before to occupy the best seats.
Every five years, the structure is replaced and made from a new design selected from the best capable of blending tradition and innovation.
The porters of Santa Rosa – Photo “Viterbo. History and Masterpieces”
The Porters train for months for this important event, which requires all their strength and devotion to the Patron Saint. Each group occupies a different position, the Ciuffi in the nine internal rows under the Macchina, and the Spallette and the Stanghette in the external rows. A head porter directs the procession. Before shouldering the burden, all porters receive the blessing in articulo mortis by the bishop, a sort of sacrament of the last rites. The “Museo del Sodalizio dei Facchini di Santa Rosa”, in the historic district of San Pellegrino, displays models of a few Machines, as well as videos, photographs and historical images.
The Santa Rosa Machine changes every five years
The event begins on September 3 at 9 pm in Piazza San Sisto, in the district of Porta Romana; the traditional route covers about 1200 metres. After the command “sollevate e fermi!” (lift and stand still!), the parade marches along via Garibaldi and reaches the first stop in piazza Fontana Grande, then continues to via Cavour and piazza del Plebiscito, the second stop. From via Roma, the Porters reach the third stop in piazza delle Erbe, and then proceed along corso Italia, making a fourth stop at the Chiesa del Suffragio, and, after a brief technical stop near the Chiesa di Sant’Egidio, they arrive in piazza del Teatro, the fifth stop. Finally, they face the last stretch, the steep via Santa Rosa, up to largo Facchini di Santa Rosa. Here, the Macchina remains on display to the faithful for a few days.
The Dies Natalis project, the Machine that will be parading from 2024
In the current year 2024, the new Macchina di Santa Rosa, designed by the architect Raffaele Ascenzi, has acquired the name of “Dies Natalis”. The imposing bell tower represents three moments of Rosa’s journey to sainthood: from the passage from earthly life on the day of her death, to the rebirth among the angels and saints of heaven. The statue of the Saint is placed inside the structure, while the materials and techniques used are highly innovative: aluminium instead of steel and computer-controlled milling machines.