It has the shape of an onion but won’t make you cry! We are in Casperia, where the Middle Ages left such a huge impression that at the Porta di Santa Maria, also called Porta Reatina, you can admire a clock that marks medieval canonical time.

The historic centre of Casperia, in the heart of Sabina, is structured like an “onion bulb”, with streets in concentric circles that gradually narrow, climbing the slopes of the hill and finishing in Piazza San Giovanni Battista, where the church of the same name is located. One of many religious structures worth visiting, there is also the better-known Church of Santa Maria in Legarano where interesting works of art can be found. Towers, walkways, ravines, loopholes, pillboxes, obligatory routes bear witness to the history and medieval origins of ancient Aspra, today Casperia, one of the few villages in Europe whose historic centre is completely closed to cars.

To access the town, there are different entrances. Porta Romana will take you inside the village to the fascinating, perfectly restored cobbled climb up to Piazza Umberto I and the beautiful fountain on the belvedere, where you can admire the view of the Sabine mountains and Mount Soratte.

After all this walking … you must dig your fork into a good plate of stringozzi pasta with porcini mushrooms.

Casperia, in the province of Rieti, 68 kilometers from Rome.

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Cities and Villages