Dominated by the imposing Palazzo Farnese, Caprarola is one of the most remarkable urban examples from the sixteenth century. This medieval village in Tuscia is crossed by the impressive “Via dritta”, which rises from the foot of the hill and continues over bridges and filled ravines, until it reaches the square of Palazzo Farnese.
View of Caprarola
The triumphal entrance avenue of the Palace, the current via Nicolai, results from the demolition of the ancient urban fabric, when the old village was divided into two districts, Corsica and Sardegna. To make up for the loss of religious and private buildings, Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, nephew of Paolo III, favoured, along the majestic boulevard, the construction of new residences designed by the architect Vignola, the palaces of the nobles accompanying the Farnese family, the Hospital of San Giovanni, and the Church of San Marco.
Palazzo Farnese preserves nothing of the original fortress. Vignola turned it into a magnificent residence, both outside and inside. The entirely frescoed spiral staircase Scala Regia, with its thirty columns balustrade, could even be climbed by Alessandro Farnese on horseback.
Palazzo Farnese a Caprarola, Sala del Mappamondo – www.direzioneregionalemuseilazio.cultura.gov.it
The sumptuous boardrooms, painted by the brothers Zuccari – who also designed the Sacred Forest of Bomarzo – were a meeting place for writers, nobles, and musicians. The frescoes on the walls and ceiling of the Mappamondo room, a world map from where Australia is missing, are a triumph of blue.
Villa Farnese in Caprarola
Palazzo Farnese also houses hidden stairs in the walls, used by servants not to disturb nobles and guests. Finally, do not forget a visit to the Italian Garden around the Palace, decorated with statues, steps, and fountains.
Scuderie di Palazzo Farnese – www.retedimorestorichelazio.it
The Scuderie Farnese (Farnese Stables) were built at the end of the 16th century and could accommodate up to 120 horses. On the first floor was the coach house, on the second there was the barn, the flats of the coachmen, squires and servants̀. The stables were used by the Farnese family until 1649. Today, the imposing structure of the Scuderie is among Dimore Storiche del Lazio (Lazio’s historic residences).
Church and Convent of Santa Teresa – www.visitcaprarola.it
Beyond the gorge, across a bridge, Caprarola has another treasure, the Church and Convent of Santa Teresa. The Santa Teresa Complex was built in the 1620s at the behest of Cardinal Odoardo Farnese, based on a design by Girolamo Rainaldi, to give the Teresian Order of Discalced Carmelites a place for cultural and spiritual formation. Two original manuscripts of St. Teresa are kept in the library. Today the convent is a centre of spirituality and hospitality.
Chiesa di Santa Teresa interni – www.visitcaprarola.it
Attached to the convent is the church of Santa Teresa, with its Baroque peperino façade. Inside are 17th-century works by Guido Reni, Giovanni Lanfranco and Alessandro Turchi known as Veronese.
A little further away, we spot the Lago di Vico, a volcanic lake within the Nature Reserve, which also includes splendid hazelnut and chestnut trees and the Ancient Beech Forest of the Cimini Mountains, a Natural Heritage of Humanity.
The province of Viterbo is the largest Italian producer of Nocciola Romana DOP. In Caprarola, the delicious hazelnut is celebrated during a ten day most loved Festival, with tastings, shows, events, music and a parade of folkloristic floats.
Caprarola was awarded with the Orange Flag, the prestigious recognition by the Italian Touring Club, rewarding tourism-environmental development.